Mykonos Travel Guide: Windmills, Beaches, History and the Best Season
Ask ten people what Mykonos is and nine will say nightlife. The tenth will mention the windmills on the ridge above Chora, which is closer to the truth of the place. This Mykonos travel guide is written for travellers who want both: the whitewashed maze, the sixteenth-century houses hanging over the water in Little Venice, the beaches that range from family sand to full-volume beach clubs, and the island directly across the channel where Apollo was supposedly born. It also answers the question that matters most to anyone who has been before, which is when to come so that you actually enjoy it.
What to see on Mykonos
Chora, the main town, is the starting point and most of it is best seen on foot and without a plan. The Kato Mili windmills on the hill are the postcard: a row of white cylindrical towers with conical roofs, built from the sixteenth century onwards to grind grain, and now the place everyone gathers at sunset. Below them, Little Venice is a stretch of houses whose upper storeys overhang the sea, with wooden balconies and doors that open straight onto the water; the bars there are expensive and the sunset view from the sea wall is free. Behind the waterfront lies the maze, lanes narrow enough to keep cars out and painted with the occasional splash of blue and red, and a pelican or two that has become an unofficial mascot.
Panagia Paraportiani, near the sea in the Kastro quarter, is the most photographed church in the Cyclades: four chapels fused into an irregular white mass, built between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries, and asymmetrical in a way that no plan would have produced. The Archaeological Museum holds finds from the neighbouring island of Rheneia, including a famous large pithos relief of the fall of Troy. Up the coast, the Armenistis lighthouse at Fanari marks the north-western tip and is the quietest good sunset spot on the island. Inland, Ano Mera has the monastery of Panagia Tourliani, founded in 1542, with a marble fountain and a carved iconostasis, and a square of tavernas that most visitors never reach.
The island’s history
Mykonos sits a few kilometres from Delos, the sacred island that for centuries was the religious and commercial centre of the Aegean. Ancient writers located the birth of Apollo and Artemis there, and in the Roman period Delos became a vast free port whose population may have reached tens of thousands. When Delos declined after attacks in the first century BC, Mykonos absorbed what remained, and for a long time it was a poor island of sailors, farmers and small-time privateers.
Venetian rule from the thirteenth century and then Ottoman overlordship shaped the architecture you see today, including the defensive Kastro quarter and the flat-roofed cube houses built against the meltemi wind. Piracy was part of the local economy well into the eighteenth century, which is why the coast has watchtowers and why the towns are built away from the shore in places. Modern tourism arrived in the 1950s and 1960s, partly because archaeologists working at Delos based themselves here, and by the 1970s the island had its international reputation. The whitewash was not a designer’s decision either: lime was cheap, plentiful, and reflective, and in an era before air conditioning it cooled the interiors. Local authorities have since made the white-and-blue palette effectively mandatory, so what began as practical has become identity.
Highlights and beaches
The beaches are the real itinerary decision, and they are not interchangeable. On the south coast, protected from the wind, Psarou, Platis Gialos, Paradise and Super Paradise are the organised ones: sunbeds, umbrellas, music, and prices that reflect the clientele. Elia, further east, is the longest and has room for people who want sand without a DJ. On the north coast, where the meltemi hits, Agios Sostis and Fokos are unorganised, windy and much quieter, and Agios Sostis has a taverna that is worth the drive on its own. Families usually prefer Ornos and Kalafati, both sheltered with shallow water.
The other unmissable half-day is Delos, reached by boat from the old port in the morning, usually returning by early afternoon. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage island: the Terrace of the Lions, the theatre, the sacred lake, the mosaics in the House of Dionysos, and a museum that needs at least an hour. There is no shade and no accommodation, so go early with water and a hat, and check whether boats are running on your dates, since winter winds and seasonal schedules matter. Back on Mykonos, the evening is the easy part: dinner in Chora, a walk up to the windmills before sunset, or a table at the water’s edge in Little Venice.
Mykonos travel guide: the best time to visit
| Period | Weather | What it feels like |
|---|---|---|
| April-mid May | Mild, 18-24°C, sea still cool | Quiet, some hotels and clubs shut until May |
| Late May-June | Warm, 24-29°C, long daylight | The best balance; beaches open, crowds manageable |
| July-August | Hot, dry, and windy | Peak season and peak prices; meltemi winds can be strong |
| September-October | Warm sea, 22-27°C | Excellent: warm water, thinner crowds, lower rates |
| November-March | Cool, wet, windy | Most tourism closed; the island belongs to residents |
September is my preference. The sea has had all summer to warm up, the meltemi has usually eased, and the beach clubs still run but without August’s crush. July and August are for people who specifically want the scene, and they should budget accordingly: accommodation on Mykonos is among the most expensive in Greece, and a sunbed at a south-coast club can cost more than a good dinner elsewhere in the country.
Reaching the island is straightforward. Mykonos has its own airport with seasonal direct flights from many European cities and connections via Athens, and ferries run from Piraeus and Rafina as well as from Santorini, Naxos and Paros. Once there, buses serve the main beaches, taxis are limited and expensive, and a hire car, ATV or scooter is the usual solution, though the narrow roads, summer traffic and strong wind make scooters a poor idea for inexperienced riders. Greece is in the Schengen area, so check the official Greek immigration site for current entry rules before booking. Travellers who like this combination of archaeology and island life often pair it with Tower Bridge style city breaks or the alpine contrast of Salzburg; Alhambra and Tromso are the obvious extremes of light and heat. The northern island equivalent, with colder water and a Hanseatic old town, is Tallinn, and for people whose priority is landscape rather than beach, Yellowstone and Rio de Janeiro are the natural next stops. Browse more of these in travel attractions and travel guides.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need on Mykonos?
Three nights is the minimum for Chora, one or two beaches and Delos. Four or five lets you reach the quieter north coast and Ano Mera without rushing.
Is a Delos day trip worth it?
Yes, and it is the most historically significant thing within reach of the island. Go on the first boat of the day, carry water and a hat, and allow two to three hours on site.
Which beach should I choose?
Sheltered south-coast beaches such as Ornos or Elia for families and calm water; the north coast, Agios Sostis and Fokos, for quiet and wind. Beach clubs cluster at Psarou, Paradise and Super Paradise.
Is Mykonos expensive?
By Greek standards, yes, especially in July and August. Shoulder months cut accommodation costs substantially, and eating away from the waterfront in Chora keeps dinner reasonable.
Do I need a car?
Not for Chora, which is walkable, but yes if you want the north-coast beaches and Ano Mera. Buses cover the main southern beaches; taxis are few and pricey in summer.